Plum 2.0, a buttoned version for summer (free extension)

Before going any further, please note that this article is intended for those who bought the PLUM top pattern before its update and want to sew it in a buttoned midi dress version. If you don't have the pattern yet, you can buy the new enriched version by clicking here.

Our iconic PLUM , one of our first patterns, is back in a new 2.0 version with full-length buttons (top, short dress or midi dress). We explain in detail how to make this variation from your pattern in the rest of the article!

EXTEND & CUT PATTERN PIECES

• To create the button placket, add 5.5 cm in the width direction on the basque (pieces no. 7, which we call 7' here).
• To lengthen the top into a dress, simply extend the basques (pieces no. 7) by 27 cm (short version) or 57 cm (midi version) from the bottom of the pattern.

Then cut your pieces: the back basque is to be cut on the fold but the front basque is to be cut twice, not on the fold.

ASSEMBLE THE PATTERN PIECES

To sew your PLUM dress, you will need to follow the assembly steps from option C up to and including step 5.

Afterwards : 6. On the bottom of the set of pieces that will serve as the lining, mark with the iron a 1 cm fold on the reverse side (it will help you when attaching the lining to the inside of the garment). 7. Take the two front basques and the back basque. Assemble them at the sides, right sides together. Overlock the seam allowances and iron them towards the back.

8. Iron on the button plackets. To do this, cut two strips of iron-on adhesive 3 cm wide and the same length as the front basque. Using the notches, position one strip on the wrong side of the left front and one strip on the wrong side of the right front 1 cm from the edge.

9. On each front center, mark with the iron a first fold of 1 cm on the wrong side, then a second fold of 3 cm (the iron-on strip is therefore no longer visible). Pin. Topstitch 2.8 cm from the edge from the wrong side of the basque, to hold and represent the button placket part.

10. Sew two gathering threads all around, starting and stopping at the buttonhole tabs. Gather by pulling on the two top threads.

11. Pin the gathered top edge of the basque along the outer bodice, right sides together. Spread the bodice lining out of the way so it doesn't get caught in the seam. Adjust the gathers if necessary, stitch. Press the seam allowances upwards.

12. Cover the seam allowance with the bodice lining, using the 1 cm fold formed in step 6 as a guide. Topstitch along the lining from the wrong side, about 2 mm from the edge. Take your time, as this seam will be visible on the right side.

13. Hem the bottom of the garment. Make a first fold of 1 cm and mark it with the iron, then make a second fold of 1 cm. Stitch. 14. All you have to do now is make the buttonholes on the sewing machine. To do this, make 3 or 10 vertical buttonholes (depending on the option chosen, top or dress) along the right front (when worn) in the center of the button placket. Start with the 3 buttonholes on the top left front, positioning the first and last buttonholes 1 cm from the edge.

Then make those on the basque. Position the first one about 1 cm from the top of the basque, the last one 5 cm from the bottom (short dress option) or 42 cm from the bottom (midi dress option). Sew the 7 remaining buttonholes at equal distance from each other. Sew the buttons by hand facing each other. You can also sew the buttons without making buttonholes. To do this, overlap the center fronts, right side on left side, by 3 cm and sew the buttons, taking all the thicknesses.

And there you have it, you have all the information to make a pretty buttoned Plum midi dress for this summer!

Happy sewing and see you soon!
The Joli Lab Team