In the footsteps of haute couture...

This year, the Fabric Museum of Lyon reopens to the general public after more than three years of closure, offering a unique exhibition:

 "Behind the scenes of haute couture in Lyon."

 

It highlights Yves Saint-Laurent and Lyon, a beautiful story and a long adventure. That of a creator deeply attached to silk who has benefited from a unique industry and art in Lyon.

This exhibition follows in the footsteps of the major retrospectives at the Musée de Lyon. After Mariano Fortuny, Cristóbal Balenciaga, Jeanne Paquin, Madeleine Vionnet, Olivier Lapidus, Léonard and Franck Sorbier it is Yves Saint Laurent's turn.

 

 

Lyonnaises and fashion enthusiasts, visiting the fabric museum and discovering this exhibition seemed obvious to us. Ne really wanted to share with you everything we learned about the High Beam through this article!

Today, you will discover the backstage of Haute Couture. You will understand the main stages in the creation of a piece of Haute Couture, highlighted through the Lyon exhibition. Yves Saint Laurent.

 

Discover Haute Couture from the inside. 

 

First of all, what is Haute Couture?

 

 Haute Couture is first and foremost a know-how. It is a fashion "à la française", with its traditions and innovative techniques. Inspired by the codes of luxury, it is punctuated by creations, each more exceptional than the last. 

It is also a very controlled appellation, and only the houses benefiting from it can sit in the Chambres Syndicales. Each year, a commission of the Ministry of Industry chooses the houses that will enter this very closed circle. Some are permanent members such as Chanel, Dior, Alexandre Vauthier, or House Martin Margiela. The other houses have access to the label for one year, and must repeat their application each year. Finallythere are " corresponding members "which are foreign houses (Versace, Valentino…)

When a company has the label, very precise criteria must be respected:

• Each creation must be handmadeThe workshops of the house (which are composed of a minimum of 20 people),
• The house must imperatively twice-yearly parade presenting at least 25 models.
• The house has a fuzzy" workshop (fluid materials and silhouettes) and a tailor" workshop ( pants, jackets, coats...).

 

 

 

The journey of a haute couture creation

 

The first step is the development of a sketch. It will launch the spirit of the fledgling collection. The couturier produces what is called a "bible sheet", on which he reproduces his sketch and adds other crucial information as the creation develops (name of the mannequin or workshop, name of the supplier, samples and material references, etc.).

 

- sheet of sketches, muslin collection by Yves Saint Laurent -

 

The couturier then has a canvas built by his workshops, to interpret the sketch in volume. Once perfected, this canvas allows the couturier to imagine the right material and to choose the most suitable fabric.

The web has a crucial role to play. It serves as a base since it imposes a certain weight, a certain fall. It is also used for important details since it acts on the colour or the pattern of the fabric.

 

 

 

- Yves Saint Laurent in front of the development of a painting on a live model -

 

In the third phase, the canvas is dismantled to make the pattern of the model.

At the same time, the workshop develops the handling sheets. Essential, they are real identity cards for Haute Couture pieces. They contain, for example, details of supplies with price, length and manufacturing time. 

 

      

- bible leaf and handling sheet of a golden lurex robe by Yves Saint Laurent -  

 

Once sewn in the workshops, the model is presented to the designer, always on a live model. Once it has been validated (often after two or three fittings), the creation is definitively integrated into the collection board. This board is the complete and definitive vision of the creations as a whole.

 

  - Spring/summer 1996 collection board -

 

The last step is the parade. Suppliers are invited and so are customers. The company provides the catwalk program, with a purely commercial aim, with the names of the outfits or fabrics. 

 

 

- Polaroids of models from an Yves Saint Laurent fashion show -

   

 

 

 

Steps in the creation of a piece of Haute Couture in pictures

 

 

 

 

Producing a haute couture creation is a colossal task and requires meticulous organisation. 

Through a journey marked by its values, Yves Saint Laurent delivers unrivalled archives in fashion. His creations are always accompanied by sketches, working documents, order forms, period advertisements and even photographs of fashion shows.

It is thanks to great creators like Yves Saint Laurent that Haute Couture is today recognized by all and that its international reputation continues to highlight hand work and French know-how, making Paris the "fashion capital".

 

We hope you enjoyed this article and that it taught you more about Haute Couture! 

Good sewing and see you soon on the blog!

Gabrielle