Plum 2.0, a buttoned-up version for summer (free extension)

Before going any further, please note that this article is aimed at those who bought the pattern PLUM top before its update and would like to sew it as a buttoned midi dress. If you don't yet have pattern, you can purchase the new, enhanced version by clicking here.

Our iconic PLUM, one of our earliest patterns, returns in a new 2.0 version buttoned along the entire length (top, short dress or midi dress) . We'll explain in detail how to make this variation from your pattern in the rest of the article!

LENGTHENING & CUTTING PATTERN PIECES

• To create the button placket, add 5.5 cm widthwise to the basque (piece no. 7, referred to here as 7').
• To lengthen the top into a dress, simply extend the basques (part no. 7) by 27 cm (short version) or 57 cm (midi version) from the bottom of the pattern.

Next, cut your pieces: the back basque should be cut at the fold, but the front basque should be cut 2 times, not at the fold.

ASSEMBLE THE PARTS PATTERN

To sew your PLUM dress, you'll need to follow the assembly steps from option C up to and including step 5.

Next:6. On the bottom of the lining set, iron a 1 cm fold on the wrong side (this will help when attaching the lining to the inside of the garment). 7. Take the two front basques and the back basque. Join them at the sides, right sides together. Finish the seam allowances and press them towards the back. 

8. Heat-seal the button plackets. To do this, cut two strips of fusible interfacing , 3 cm wide and the same length as the front placket. Using the notches, position one strip on the wrong side of the left front and one strip on the right front, 1 cm from the edge. 

9. On each front center, iron a 1 cm fold to the wrong side, then a second 3 cm fold (the iron-on band is no longer visible). Pin in place. Topstitch 2.8 cm from the edge of the basque, to hold and represent the button placket.

10. Stitch two gathering threads all the way around, starting and stopping at the button plackets. Gather by pulling on the top two threads. 

11. Pin the gathered top edge of the basque along the outer bodice, right sides together. Pull the lining away from the bodice to avoid catching it in the seam. Adjust gathers if necessary, stitch in place. Press seam allowances upwards.

12. Cover the seam allowance with the bodice lining, using the 1 cm fold formed in step 6. Topstitch along the lining from the wrong side, about 2 mm from the edge. Take your time, as this seam will be visible from the right side.

13. Hem the bottom of the garment. Mark the first 1 cm fold with an iron, then make a second 1 cm fold. Stitch in place.14. All that's left is to make the buttonholes on the sewing machine. To do this, make 3 or 10 vertical buttonholes (depending on whether you've chosen a top or a dress) along the right front (when worn) at the center of the button placket. Start with the 3 buttonholes on the upper left front, positioning the first and last buttonholes 1 cm from the edge.

Then make those on the basque. Position the first about 1 cm from the top of the basque, the last 5 cm from the bottom (short dress option) or 42 cm from the bottom (midi dress option). Sew the remaining 7 buttonholes evenly spaced. Hand-sew the buttons facing each other. You can also sew the buttons together without making buttonholes. For this, overlap the front middles, right side to left side, by 3 cm and sew the buttons together, making sure to take up all the thicknesses.

And now, you have all the information you need to create a pretty Plum buttoned midi dress for this summer! 

Happy sewing and see you soon!
Joli Lab